Volcano Climbs & Vibrant Carpets: Unveiling the Unexpected Arts and Culture of Azerbaijan
Words by Suki Harris
“Highlights of Azerbaijan”, 2022
Nestled between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan (also known as ‘The Land of Fire’) boasts a rich artistic tapestry that's far more surprising than its stereotypical reputation of oil rigs and caviar. In 2022 I travelled to Azerbaijan with my best friend, who is Azeri, to explore the vast range of art centred in the capital city, Baku. Starting with the oldest artwork in Azerbaijan to some of the most recent works, I am going to be highlighting the best spots (in my opinion) and reasons why your next trip should be to this culturally rich capital.
“Walking through the Old City in Baku”, 2022
Gobustan's Volcanic Canvas:
Azerbaijan's artistic journey begins not within the walls of a museum, but etched onto the very rock face itself. The Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a glimpse into the lives of our prehistoric ancestors. Here lie thousands of petroglyphs – intricate carvings depicting animals, hunting scenes, and even ritualistic dances dating back as far as 20,000 years. These carvings provide a window into the daily life and cultural practices of those who lived in the region during the prehistoric period. My favourite is the petroglyph depicting a group of people standing on top of a large rock looking as if they are performing some kind of ceremony or ritual. Intriguingly, this artistic treasure trove sits nestled amongst Azerbaijan's unique geological marvels – mud volcanoes. Unlike their fiery counterparts, these volcanoes erupt with cold, grey mud instead of molten lava. To get to the top of the mountain we took a car ride in a random car with no seatbelts and a smashed windscreen, which in hindsight was not the most sensible thing to do abroad, however it did add an adventurous element to the exploration (I would recommend pre booking a tour or travelling with a local you know well). The top of the volcano provided spectacular views and you could get up close to the bubbling mud. There was even a person serving tea at the top and I got to experience my first cup of tea at the top of a volcano. The juxtaposition of prehistoric art and the mud volcanoes creates a powerful sense of connection between humans and nature in Azerbaijan during the prehistoric period.
“Collage of Photos from Gobustan”, 2022
Icheri Sheher and the Maiden’s Tower:
Icheri Sheher, translating to "Inner City," serves as a captivating portal to Azerbaijan's past as it is known as the old city of Baku. The fortified walls that define Icheri Sheher's character were constructed around the 12th century, forming a haven during turbulent times. Stepping through its colossal gates is like stepping back in time, with winding cobblestone streets lined with caravanserais (inns), mosques, and historic dwellings. Dominating the southeastern corner of Icheri Sheher is the enigmatic Maiden's Tower. Cylindrical and imposing, it stands as a symbol of Baku itself. The exact purpose and date of construction remain a mystery, with theories placing its origins anywhere between the 7th and 6th centuries BC and the 12th century AD. The most famous tale about the original purpose of the Maiden Tower tells of a beautiful princess who, to escape an unwanted marriage, took her own life by leaping from the tower's heights. Today, the Maiden's Tower stands as a museum, its eight floors showcasing archaeological finds and exhibits that illuminate the city's history. Climbing to the top, visitors are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Caspian Sea and the sprawling metropolis that now surrounds Icheri Sheher. Although I did not climb the tower, Adele took me to Cay Bagi, a tea garden that served traditional teas and snacks that overlooks the city. Exploring Icheri Sheher and the Maiden's Tower is more than just a historical excursion; it's an experience that unveils the soul of Azerbaijan.
“The view from the Maiden’s Tower”, 2022
Unveiling Ancient Flames: A Journey to the Ateshgah Fire Temple:
Located just outside Baku, the Ateshgah, also known as the Fire Temple, stands as a testament to the captivating power of natural flames. For centuries, eternal fires have erupted from the very ground here, a phenomenon that both terrified and mesmerised ancient civilizations. Drawn by this spectacle, Zoroastrians – followers of an ancient religion that revered fire as a sacred element – arrived in Azerbaijan sometime between the 2nd and 7th centuries AD. Inspired by the eternal flames, they constructed a temple on the site, naming it Ateshgah, which translates to "Place of Fire" in Farsi. The Ateshgah's architectural style reflects its multicultural past. The central courtyard features an altar where Zoroastrian priests once tended the flames. Surrounding this sacred space are chambers built by Hindu and Sikh pilgrims who were also drawn to the Ateshgah's fire. Each chamber reflects the architectural traditions of its builders, adding to the temple's unique character.
The Ateshgah's significance goes beyond its architectural beauty. It served as a vibrant pilgrimage site for centuries, attracting followers of diverse faiths who found common ground in their reverence for fire. The temple walls are adorned with inscriptions left by pilgrims over the years, offering a glimpse into the lives and beliefs of those who journeyed here. Today visitors can wander the chambers, marvel at the architectural details, and see the everlasting flame. Stepping into the Ateshgah is like stepping back in time, a journey that unveils yet another unexpected facet of Azerbaijan's culture.
“Me standing in front of the Everlasting Fire at Ateshgah”, 2022
“Collage from the Carpet Museum and Baku Museum of Modern Art”, 2022
From Threads of Tradition to Artistic Revolution; Unveiling Baku's Museums:
Baku's museums offer a fascinating glimpse into the country's soul, showcasing a vibrant artistic heritage that stretches from the meticulous craft of carpet weaving to the bold strokes of contemporary art. Stepping into the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum is like stepping into a living masterpiece. Here, row upon row of intricate carpets, each a testament to the weaver's artistry and storytelling skills, unfold before your eyes. You'll witness the painstaking techniques passed down through generations, from the art of selecting and dyeing wool to the intricate process of knotting that transforms threads into captivating narratives. The museum's collection boasts over 6,000 carpets, spanning centuries and representing the diverse styles of Azerbaijan's seven carpet weaving schools. Intricate geometric designs tell tales of nomadic life, while vibrant floral motifs evoke the lush beauty of Azerbaijan's landscapes.
The Baku Museum of Modern Art pulsates with the energy of contemporary creation. Here, bold canvases and innovative installations by Azerbaijani and international artists challenge your perspective and reveal the dynamic art scene that thrives alongside traditional crafts here in Azerbaijan. The museum's collection showcases a variety of artistic movements, from abstract expressionism to pop art and video installations. Being one of the only galleries in Baku displaying modern art, it is a refreshing experience to get the taste of both older and newer artworks to tell the story of Azerbaijan in their capital.
